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Got a weed problem in the yard, flower bed or vegetable garden and need help choosing which product to spray? This article will explain the basic difference between the two main groups of weeds and then offer specific products that can be used safely and effectively in the yard… READ MORE

Filed under weed problems by  #

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I have a vining weed with little blue flowers spreading through my lawn. I've tried 2-4-d but it does not seem to help. What can you recommend with out knowing the name of this weed that will not kill the grass? I live in Western PA. Thank You for your attention to my problem.

Sounds like chickweed but there are several weeds that fit the description. That being said, 2-4-D is good for maybe 70-80% of the common weeds found around homes. But to get them all, you'll need some kind of "multi" mix concentrate. These formulations incorporate several actives and when combined, will do a thorough job of handling both grass and broadleaf weeds.

In fact I seem to fight a similar weed every 2-3 years. Its invasive and comes from the wild area that borders my property. I use WEED FREE ZONE to handle it along with any other weed that tries to grow in my fescue. The great thing about this product is that it will perform even when its cold so its not temperature dependent. And it comes in both a concentrate and a "ready to spray".

Check it out in our shopping cart for more details but if you want a "one spray for all weeds" type product, forget the 2-4-D (which this product contains) and move to this concentrate to save time and effort.

Weed Free: http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/weed-free-rts-concentrate

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we're open 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

http://bugspray.com

1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!



Filed under chickweed, vine by  #

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Dear Sir/Madam:

I have a lot of raspberry plants in rows with a crabgrass problem. Would your product “Poast Grass Killer” be safe to use around my berry patch? Thanks.

In fact our GRASSY WEED KILLER is labeled for use in vegetable gardens and around fruit plants including strawberries. I believe there is a 45 "days to harvest" following the treatment. Read up on the product label to be sure. You can a link to the label on our product page which is here:

Grassy Weed Killer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/poast-grass-killer

Weed Control:  http://www.lawn-weeds.com/weed-control

Filed under crabgrass killer by  #

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I need a weed killer that works when it's cold out. Winter isn't over but I see way too many weeds in my fescue and bermuda grass. I think I can safely use some roundup for the bermuda because it's still dormant. But my fescue is growing fine as are the weeds. I got some stuff from you last summer but when I was reading the label, it said I need it to be warmer then it is for it to work right. Are there any alternatives?

Killing weeds when it's cold used to be near impossible but we recently found a product called WEED FREE ZONE. It uses an active which is effective on both grassy and broadleaf weeds and you can use it safely on Fescue. The coverage is excellent too. So whether you want to spot spray or broadcast it over the entire lot, Weed Free is the way to go till late spring or summer.

Weed Free:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/weed-free-rts-concentrate

Filed under winter herbicide by  #

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Once I have applied Weedar 64 to a grazing pasture, how long should I wait to reseed? One month? Two?

WEEDAR 64 is a broadleaf herbicide which means it targets broadleaf weeds. So the big question here is what kind of seeds are you looking to plant? If you review the Weedar Label, you'll see there are some guidelines for certain plants but I'm not aware of any restrictions or waiting time listed if the seed is some kind of grass. Read through the label to make sure I'm not missing anything; here are the links:

Weedar 64 Label:  http://www.bugspray.net/labels/weedar_64_label.pdf

Weedar 64 Herbicide: http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/weedar-64-gallon

Filed under Blog by  #

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I have crab grass in my pasture of bermuda grass. I need to kill it now and prevent it from coming back. Can u help me with a product to use?

We can. In our WEED CONTROL ARTICLE, we have two products that will do the job. First, treat with the WEEDOUT which will kill exposed crab grass. Next, apply SURFLAN to stop anymore from growing.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Weed Control Article:  http://www.lawn-weeds.com/weed-control#grass

Weedout:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/weed-out-quinclorac-pint

Surflan:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/pre-emerge/surflan-pre-emergent

Filed under Blog by  #

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Do you have anything that can control Poa Annua in St. Augustine grass?
What about getting rid of Bermuda grass in St. Augustine?

ATRAZINE will handle the Poa Annua. You can read details on it's label. However, Bermuda and St. Augustine are closely related and any product currently on the market that will kill Bermuda will most likely kill the St. Augustine as well. The most common Bermuda killer we sell is the TURFLON. It's fine for fescue and bluegrass blends but will injure the St. Augustine if you broadcast it over the entire yard.

So your choices are to hand remove the Bermuda or try to isolate your treatments to just those patches. I have seen where people will use a weak mixture of Turflon and apply it to the center patches of Bermuda and carefully avoid getting any on the St. Augustine. This is not the most effective approach but it will save some time. And over the course of a few treatments, you can kill off 90+% of the Bermuda without hurting the St. Augustine so it's somewhat effective.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Atrazine:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/atrazine-quart

Turflon:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/turflon-ester

Filed under Blog by  #

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can i apply liquid surflan to beds that have lillies or daffidills already 12 to 15 inches high?

Absolutely. As explained in our WEED CONTROL ARTICLE, one of the great features of SURFLAN is that it won't hurt anything already growing. Use it at least twice a year to keep any weeds from growing locally in both your grass and flower beds.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Weed Control using Surflan:  http://www.lawn-weeds.com/weed-control#ground

Surflan:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/pre-emerge/surflan-pre-emergent

Filed under Blog by  #

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I have grass that thus far is uncontrollable. It's taken over almost half of my yard.  I took some to a nursery and they said it was a species of johnson grass.  Only grows about 1 foot tall and is very tough with a narrow leaf.  What can I use on this that will not kill my St Augustine?  Is there a preemerge and is it too late to use a preemerge?

Johnsongrass is one of the tougher weeds to control – especially when trying to treat a St. Augustine lawn. Over the years we've had people use two approaches. The first method is for when you have current infestations and involves the use of a post emerge.

Though the label does not list Johnsongrass specifically, we have had people apply both IMAGE and ATRAZINE to defeat it after finding it growing in their grass. This approach will usually require more than one application so plan on treating twice with the followup to be done 2 weeks after the initial. Also, target the Johsongrass. In other words, don't spray the entire yard. And don't soak it heavily either. Lightly spraying as much of the unwanted johnsongrass will do the trick if you treat throughout the season after it's been growing.

The second approach is by far the most effective. Since johnsongrass comes back annually via seeds, a good application of a pre emerge like SURFLAN or RONSTAR G can keep it from ever growing. This is definitely the way to go. And there really isn't a "wrong" time to use either. Both products can last 3-6 months so you need to be using it sometime in May-June then again in Sept-Oct and then again in Jan-Feb. I use it 3 times a year in my yard and have had great success keeping most any unwanted weed from growing. And the bottom line is it's much easier to deal with these things with pre emerge products instead of a post emerge.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Image:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/image-24-oz

Atrazine:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/atrazine-quart

Surflan:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/pre-emerge/surflan-pre-emergent

Ronstar:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/pre-emerge/ronstar-g-herbicide-50-lbs

Filed under post emerge by  #

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What would be the rate to mix in a one gallon sprayer to be used to spot spray crabgrass in centipeed lawn.

We have some generic information posted here:

Atrazine: http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/atrazine-quart

The full label is posted here:

http://www.bugspray.net/labels/atrazine_label.pdf

Filed under crabgrass killer by  #

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How do I kill Japanese clover in my St. augustine Floratam lawn without killing the grass?

We've had great results with the ATRAZINE for clover. It can handle a wide range of weeds and safe for use on St Augustine.

Here is a direct link to it in our cart:

Atrazine:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/atrazine-quart

Filed under st augustine by  #

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I have a gal of your weedar 64 that I used to use in my strawberry patch which I have since removed, can I use this weedar 64 on my lawn to kill weeds, and if so how much per gal would I use
Thanks for your time.

B.G.

Weedar works on a wide range of broadleaf weeds and can be sprayed over grass. Use it at the rate of .75 oz per gallon of water per 1000/sq ft of turf. More information on this product can be seen here:

Weedar: http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/weedar-64-gallon

Filed under broadleaf killer by  #

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I have some Eraser AQ that we used to kill invasive weeds in our pond. Recently we had a hot-mix asphalt drive way installed on our existing clay gravel road bed.  Now our grasses (Bermuda, Cetepede, and Bahia Grass) are all comming up through the asphalt.  Wanted to know if Eraser AQ could be used to control these grasses coming through then asphalt??

As explained in our LAWN WEED CONTROL ARTICLE, the Eraser is an active that will kill any plant. The AQ is no different. However, you'll need to use it over and over during the course of any one season and this will not only take a lot of time but in the end a big cost. Eraser is a bit pricey since it's formulated for the more "refined" aquatic environment.

Instead I suggest you use PRAMITOL EC. One application in the spring should be all you need. It's soil sterilizing active means you should get a good 3-6 months control which in the long run will prove to save both time and money. I have several cracks in my pavement which allow weeds to grow but one treatment with the Pramitol and I'm done worrying about them for the year. I like to treat early April before the weeds start showing. Pramitol will kill everything but it's not the fastest acting. If you do apply some and want the fastest results on the weeds currently standing, be sure to add some of the Eraser this first time you use it. Pramitol and Eraser mixed in the same tank is fine and combined will kill both what's growing quickly and prevent anything new for many months to come. My guess is a good job done now should last most if not the whole year.

Here are direct links to this information and products:

http://www.lawn-weeds.com/weed-control

Pramitol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/pramitol-25e

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

Filed under asphalt driveway by  #

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I have an irises bed…………established in it's 2nd year.

It is overtaken with weeds…………and I am having a hard time…controling them.

What do you recomend without killing my irises??

Take some time to review the information we have in our WEED CONTROL ARTICLE. There is a section just one WEEDS IN FLOWER BEDS which offers up some options. You don't mention which type of weeds you have so I'm thinking either GRASS KILLER or the BASAGRAN will be needed; maybe both.

Direct links to this information and products are here including labels on both products:

http://www.lawn-weeds.com/weed-control#flower

http://www.lawn-weeds.com/weed-control

Grassy Weed Killer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/poast-grass-killer

Basagran: http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/basagran-sa

Labels:

http://www.bugspray.net/labels/poast_grass_killer_label.pdf

http://www.bugspray.net/labels/basagran_label.pdf

jonathan
www.bugspray.com

Filed under irises by  #

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Is there any grass and weed killer that is safe for plants and pets?  The plants are Hibiscus and Clematis and the pets are cats.

Thank You for any help you can give me.

First, the herbicides we have listed in our WEED CONTROL ARTICLE won't pose a hazard to people or pets when used properly. We have some SAFETY VIDEOS that cover everything you need to know regarding the safe use, mixing and storage of these products. One of the most important things you can do is keep the pet away when treating the yard and then keep them away till the area dries. This is usually no longer than 2 hours. Once dry there is no danger to people or pets and everyone can walk over these surfaces like they did before.

Second, there are only a few products which can be safely used over beneficial plants. One that should do the job is GRASS KILLER. On it's label Grass Killer cites it's Okay for use on hibiscus but I wasn't able to find anything on the Clematis. Just to be safe, I suggest spraying around those plants and if you limit your application to just the weeds, I'm fairly confident you won't bother them if they are a broadleaf. To be sure just test a small section by spraying it and letting it sit for 3-5 days to see if anything happens.

In summary, there are products that can be safely used around your sensitive plants. The key is knowing the label and in some cases "testing" to be sure. I also advise mixing accurately to be sure you don't "overdose" it.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

http://www.lawn-weeds.com/weed-control

http://www.lawn-weeds.com/product-safety

Grassy Weed Killer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/poast-grass-killer

jonathan
www.bugspray.com

Filed under safe to use by  #