WEEDAR 64 is a broadleaf herbicide which means it targets broadleaf weeds. So the big question here is what kind of seeds are you looking to plant? If you review the Weedar Label, you'll see there are some guidelines for certain plants but I'm not aware of any restrictions or waiting time listed if the seed is some kind of grass. Read through the label to make sure I'm not missing anything; here are the links:

Weedar 64 Label:  http://www.bugspray.net/labels/weedar_64_label.pdf

Weedar 64 Herbicide: http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/weedar-64-gallon

We can. In our WEED CONTROL ARTICLE, we have two products that will do the job. First, treat with the WEEDOUT which will kill exposed crab grass. Next, apply SURFLAN to stop anymore from growing.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Weed Control Article:  http://www.lawn-weeds.com/weed-control#grass

Weedout:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/weed-out-quinclorac-pint

Surflan:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/pre-emerge/surflan-pre-emergent

ATRAZINE will handle the Poa Annua. You can read details on it's label. However, Bermuda and St. Augustine are closely related and any product currently on the market that will kill Bermuda will most likely kill the St. Augustine as well. The most common Bermuda killer we sell is the TURFLON. It's fine for fescue and bluegrass blends but will injure the St. Augustine if you broadcast it over the entire yard.

So your choices are to hand remove the Bermuda or try to isolate your treatments to just those patches. I have seen where people will use a weak mixture of Turflon and apply it to the center patches of Bermuda and carefully avoid getting any on the St. Augustine. This is not the most effective approach but it will save some time. And over the course of a few treatments, you can kill off 90+% of the Bermuda without hurting the St. Augustine so it's somewhat effective.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Atrazine:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/atrazine-quart

Turflon:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/turflon-ester

Absolutely. As explained in our WEED CONTROL ARTICLE, one of the great features of SURFLAN is that it won't hurt anything already growing. Use it at least twice a year to keep any weeds from growing locally in both your grass and flower beds.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Weed Control using Surflan:  http://www.lawn-weeds.com/weed-control#ground

Surflan:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/pre-emerge/surflan-pre-emergent

Johnsongrass is one of the tougher weeds to control – especially when trying to treat a St. Augustine lawn. Over the years we've had people use two approaches. The first method is for when you have current infestations and involves the use of a post emerge.

Though the label does not list Johnsongrass specifically, we have had people apply both IMAGE and ATRAZINE to defeat it after finding it growing in their grass. This approach will usually require more than one application so plan on treating twice with the followup to be done 2 weeks after the initial. Also, target the Johsongrass. In other words, don't spray the entire yard. And don't soak it heavily either. Lightly spraying as much of the unwanted johnsongrass will do the trick if you treat throughout the season after it's been growing.

The second approach is by far the most effective. Since johnsongrass comes back annually via seeds, a good application of a pre emerge like SURFLAN or RONSTAR G can keep it from ever growing. This is definitely the way to go. And there really isn't a "wrong" time to use either. Both products can last 3-6 months so you need to be using it sometime in May-June then again in Sept-Oct and then again in Jan-Feb. I use it 3 times a year in my yard and have had great success keeping most any unwanted weed from growing. And the bottom line is it's much easier to deal with these things with pre emerge products instead of a post emerge.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Image:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/image-24-oz

Atrazine:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/atrazine-quart

Surflan:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/pre-emerge/surflan-pre-emergent

Ronstar:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/pre-emerge/ronstar-g-herbicide-50-lbs

We have some generic information posted here:

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2058.html

The full label is posted here:

http://www.bugspray.net/labels/atrazine_label.pdf

We've had great results with the ATRAZINE for clover. It can handle a wide range of weeds and safe for use on St Augustine.

Here is a direct link to it in our catalog:

Atrazine:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/yard/herbicide/atrazine-quart

B.G.

Weedar works on a wide range of broadleaf weeds and can be sprayed over grass. Use it at the rate of .75 oz per gallon of water per 1000/sq ft of turf. More information on this product can be seen here:

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2008.html

As explained in our LAWN WEED CONTROL ARTICLE, the Eraser is an active that will kill any plant. The AQ is no different. However, you'll need to use it over and over during the course of any one season and this will not only take a lot of time but in the end a big cost. Eraser is a bit pricey since it's formulated for the more "refined" aquatic environment.

Instead I suggest you use PRAMITOL EC. One application in the spring should be all you need. It's soil sterilizing active means you should get a good 3-6 months control which in the long run will prove to save both time and money. I have several cracks in my pavement which allow weeds to grow but one treatment with the Pramitol and I'm done worrying about them for the year. I like to treat early April before the weeds start showing. Pramitol will kill everything but it's not the fastest acting. If you do apply some and want the fastest results on the weeds currently standing, be sure to add some of the Eraser this first time you use it. Pramitol and Eraser mixed in the same tank is fine and combined will kill both what's growing quickly and prevent anything new for many months to come. My guess is a good job done now should last most if not the whole year.

Here are direct links to this information and products:

http://www.lawn-weeds.com/weed-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1995.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

What do you recomend without killing my irises??

Take some time to review the information we have in our WEED CONTROL ARTICLE. There is a section just one WEEDS IN FLOWER BEDS which offers up some options. You don't mention which type of weeds you have so I'm thinking either GRASS KILLER or the BASAGRAN will be needed; maybe both.

Direct links to this information and products are here including labels on both products:

http://www.lawn-weeds.com/weed-control#flower

http://www.lawn-weeds.com/weed-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2004.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2003.html

Labels:

http://www.bugspray.net/labels/poast_grass_killer_label.pdf

http://www.bugspray.net/labels/basagran_label.pdf

Thank You for any help you can give me.

First, the herbicides we have listed in our WEED CONTROL ARTICLE won't pose a hazard to people or pets when used properly. We have some SAFETY VIDEOS that cover everything you need to know regarding the safe use, mixing and storage of these products. One of the most important things you can do is keep the pet away when treating the yard and then keep them away till the area dries. This is usually no longer than 2 hours. Once dry there is no danger to people or pets and everyone can walk over these surfaces like they did before.

Second, there are only a few products which can be safely used over beneficial plants. One that should do the job is GRASS KILLER. On it's label Grass Killer cites it's Okay for use on hibiscus but I wasn't able to find anything on the Clematis. Just to be safe, I suggest spraying around those plants and if you limit your application to just the weeds, I'm fairly confident you won't bother them if they are a broadleaf. To be sure just test a small section by spraying it and letting it sit for 3-5 days to see if anything happens.

In summary, there are products that can be safely used around your sensitive plants. The key is knowing the label and in some cases "testing" to be sure. I also advise mixing accurately to be sure you don't "overdose" it.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

http://www.lawn-weeds.com/weed-control

http://www.lawn-weeds.com/product-safety

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2004.html

After looking over some labels, it looks like the GRASS KILLER post emerge might be Okay to use over bluestem and forbes. I'm not 100% sure on this so you may want to treat a small area to confirm before doing anything extensive. But there are no warnings on the label and from the documentation I've found, it appears that any invasive grassy weed would succumb to the Grass Killer and most prairie grass is strong enough to handle this approach. But as I see it, treating before the grassy weeds arrives would be smart and some pre emerge would be ideal for this need.

The one I would recommend would be SURFLAN. It's active on most anything trying to grow from seed and 2-3 treatments a year should do it. I've got labels posted on these here:

http://www.bugspray.net/labels/poast_grass_killer_label.pdf

http://www.bugspray.net/labels/surflan_label.pdf

The products can be seen here:

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2004.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2005.html

Hope this helps.

Thank You

If you review the GRASS KILLER LABEL, you'll find that not only is it OK to spray POAST GRASS KILLER before the asparagus comes up but even afterward. In other words, you can actually spray during the growing season when the asparagus is maturing. There is a "one day to harvest" waiting period following the treatment but my point is it's OK to use as needed during the growing season.

The reason for this is explained in our WEED CONTROL ARTICLE. Basically selective herbicides generally target one type of plant or another. In this case, the grass killer is pretty specific and won't affect flowers, shrubs, trees or even most vegetables. There are some exceptions to this rule but if you review the label, you'll see it's OK to spray on most any common plant grown around the home.

Here are direct links to the label, product and article mentioned above. And if you have further questions or concerns, let us know. You may always e-mail or call us toll free 1-800-877-7290.

http://www.bugspray.net/labels/poast_grass_killer_label.pdf

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page2004.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

Thanks for your help, L.

MSMA can safely be used in the yard where people and pets are active. Like most of our products, you should keep people and pets off the treated area during the application and for a few hours following the treatment. This will both insure the treatment has a chance to be effective as well as ensure no one comes in contact with wet spray which can lead to exposure. Once the area has dried you can go back to using it as always.

For more information on safe application methods including proper mixing and storing of our products, view the first video on this page:

http://www.bugspray.net/product-safety

And if you have further questions or concerns, give our office a call at 1-800-877-7290.

SURFLAN is one of the best pre emerge products on the market. It does a great job of stopping most any weed seed from being able to germinate and grow. I use it on my Fescue, my mulch beds and even my flower beds. It won't hurt anything already growing and a good treatment will last 2-3 months.

The best time to apply Surflan is usually Nov-Dec and then again in Feb-March. In some regions a third application may be needed but two a year seems to work for me. Learn more about Surflan in the following product spotlight video.